1-14-07
Well where was I.  I don't think I said enough about the boat trip.  Granted it was 8 hours long so the tushy hurt towards the end.  However boating up the Mekong amidst beautiful mountains and rock faces, seeing the other boats, folks doing laundry and fishing and the gardens wow.  Everyone plants their gardens on the banks of the river so we could see all the beautiful greens of new plants.  I saw a boat with two boys in it, one leaning over the edge.  On closer inspection I noticed he was holding the lead of a water buffalo that was swimming next to the boat.  Crazy sight. 
Nong Kiaw was breathtaking.  a quiet little town that still gets a few tourists, but nothing overwhelming.  I went to the market and was the only farang (foreigner) there.  Nice to be in a true village market selling food, clothes, pots and pans.  It doesn't take much to get tired of the constant "buy one thing from me"  "real silk" and "I make good price for you".  None of that here.  I spent almost a whole day in my hammock reading and enjoying the mountain view.  It was very nice to have a whole day off.  The next day I took it easy again thinking I would catch the late bus, but when I went to buy the ticket there was a new bus on the schedule!  I got the earlier bus, but it was really a songtao so 4 hours of sitting in the back of a truck.  Oh well, I made it back safely. 
The ticket situation is not the best.  Not knowing my plans in advance has make me have to take busses everywhere.  All the plane and train tickets are sold out.  Oh well, I have my motion sick patch on and am ready for three days of travel. 
Luckily the bus didn't leave until the evening so I had an extra day in Luan Prabang.  This gave me time to go to the night market and get a great Hmong tapestry, see one of the Wats and go to a new waterfall.  I love waterfalls so they are all great to me, but this could be the most beautiful waterfall I have ever seen.  I met a couple from Canada staying at the same guest house so we hiked the falls together. 
Speaking of guest houses I found the most friendly family run guest house in LP called Cold River Guesthouse.  I got in Sunday night which happened to be family dinner night.  Family meant the whole family, and all of the guests.  It was dinner for 25.  After we all ate papa they came around and gave everyone shots of lao lao, the local strong alcohol.  They also helped book tickets and get a tuk tuk to the station.  When I was leaving there were five people waving goodbye and I was only there one night!  They also gave me a snack of bananas for the ride.  What a great family, and guest house.
Now for the crazy busses.  I rode a night bus last night and got about 2 hours sleep.  I couldn't fall asleep for the longest time so I watched 007 Casino Royal in dubbed in Thai, subtitles in Lao.  Then a whole slue of Thai kareoke music videos.  After I finally fell asleep I woke up to the man next to me with his hand on my leg.  Creepy.  So I spent the rest of the ride doing a lot more cuddling my purse than sleeping.  We got in to Vientiane at 6 am so I have been killing time until my next bus this evening.  That's fine because it gave me time to catch up on email and have a sauna and massage.  I love these herbal saunas before a massage.  Well off to eat something before my next long bus ride. 
I love you all, thanks for all the support you have given me in this new and crazy experience.  It is good to know I have such great family and friends that care, even if I am far away.  I have much love and respect for all of you.  Madalitso
-Alice
-Free